Re: Cold Weather Paddling and Old Bowlines Article
Posted by:
hanleyk1 (IP Logged)
Date: December 08, 2009 12:32PM
Here's that story I was talking about. It really illustrates true hypothermia and how it progresses. It's kind of long, but a really good read.
Hanley
From the old forum:
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The beautiful upper Red River is a siren song for unsuspecting boaters.
Bruce Layne
By John Svendsen (Johns) on Monday, January 31, 2005 - 09:58 pm:
Well with all the recent information on preparing oneself for a cold weather paddling trip I can't help but to share with you a tale of woe and misfortune as to what can happen when what is not quite prepared for an adventure -- so without further adieu --
Spring Break on the Upper Red River Gorge -- A tale of alcohol, stupidity and hypothermia.
March 1982 - Out on spring break, my good friend Steve Hedges and I decide to do a little bit of canoe camping. Our goal was to take 4-5 days to paddle a 30-40 mile stretch of Rockcastle Creek in central Kentucky. We had a large 17+ foot "special age-hardened, stretch-formed aluminum alloy" Grummann canoe -- you remember these beasts? -- and probably a hundred pounds of equipment--tent, sleeping bags, and provisions. Unfortunately when we got to Bee Rock it was raining hard and heavy so we spent the night there at the campground hoping the rain would cease during the evening. Unfortunately it did not--in fact it just kept raining--all the next day without a break. So we set on the banks comforting ourselves by drinking beer all day watching the rain come down and the river turn muddy and rise. No big deal--we had all week to paddle. But the next morning it was still raining--less so--but still a constant drizzle--leaving us with another day on the bank drinking beer and singing the same old songs. Fortunately, by the third day the sun was trying to poke out of the clouds and the rain had stopped. Only problem was the river was in flood and certainly no longer offering us the opportunity to paddle and camp. Hmm--what to do?
"I know, Steve! Let's drive up to the Red River Gorge. Maybe it hasn't rained as much up north. And if we put in on Highway 746 and paddle the upper gorge we can still put together a 20-30 mile trip and camp along the way." "Yeah let's do that!" So we broke camp and drove up to the Red River Gorge. We entered the lower gorge through the Nada tunnel and drove the road that parallels the river. The scenery was absolutely beautiful -- tall cliffs, rock arches, stands of virgin hemlock and an understory of rhododendron and mountain laurel. We pulled out a fifth of whiskey and went to sipping as we drove up the valley, back to the parkway and to the put-in. We'd catch glimpses of the river as we drove--it was high and muddy but certainly didn't look threatening--we could do this! But little did we know the upper gorge and lower gorge are two entirely different animals.
By the time we got to the put in we were already a bit tipsy -- but ever so excited to finally get on some water. Our spring break was looking much better even though the clouds were again building up and blocking the sun. We loaded the boat--strapping the gear in tightly--as we knew the upper gorge was considered to be a true "whitewater stream". Seemed to be a perfect test for our youthful tesosterone --
Now I know you are all "in the know" but for those who have yet to paddle the upper Red River let me interject here the AWA's and Chris Chaney's description of the upper Red River Gorge reach:
"The Upper Red River Gorge is one of the more sought after white water runs in the state. From the beautiful river wide Calaboose Falls to the large boulder garden just before the Narrows to the last stretch of white water through the house sized boulders below Clifty Creek you won't ever forget the beauty and grandeur contained within the Upper Red River Gorge. A kayak or white water canoe is the best choice for the exhilarating trip through the boulder gardens and trackless stretches of forest the Upper Gorge has to offer. Many flat water canoes piloted by inexperienced boaters are lost or ruined every year. The Upper Red is not the place to learn white water paddling or a place to take the wooden canoe you inherited from your grandpa. Experience in a white water environment and first aid training of some kind are highly recommended before attempting this or any remote white water run. Rescues in the Upper Gorge are long in coming and difficult to execute. The Upper Gorge is 9-10 miles of rough terrain surrounded by high cliffs and dense hardwood forests. This combined with a mostly winter and spring season make for a serious undertaking to say the least. Be certain of your abilities before tackling this spectacular run."
"The difficulty level of this river varies a lot depending on water level. At low flows the river is suitable for advanced beginning kayakers. Tight manouvering through boulders is required though, which would be difficult for a canoe. At high flows the rapids become more straightforward to navigate, though they are pushy and powerful, and some holes need to be avoided. At very high water the Red is extremely dangerous."
Karl Whipp further testifies:
"EXTREMELY remote. Once you're in, the only way out is downriver."
OK so now you know what Steve and I are about to get ourselves into and this was back in a time when the only whitewater experience I had had was paddling on some relatively pleasant Class II streams in Arkansas. As for Steve I think this was his first time on "moving water".
So anyway we down the rest of the whiskey, high five one another and jump in the boat just as it begins to rain once again.... The first couple of miles finds us enjoying the scenery like bumbling drunks but the rain which is now turning to sleet was beginning to sober us up a bit when we hit the first Class III rapid. Now I can't recall what went wrong but we soon found ourselves swimming along side a capsized canoe -- we beached the boat, "squeeged" the cold water from our long johns and levi pants and still somewhat happy with alcohol we were quickly on our way again.
As our teeth began to chatter we decided we would pull out at the next spot flat suitable to set up camp. Now the problem is -- in the upper gorge there are no flat spots to camp along the river--rather the bluffs come right down to the water--and any land adjacent to the creek is nothing but a rhododendron thicket that was now slowly being covered by like a 1000cfs of muddy flooding waters pouring through the gorge. Soon we entered the Narrows where the gorge collapses in on the river and there is continuous Class II-III pushy, pushy water. Soon thereafter we broach the boat mid-stream on a large rock. Water quickly fills the boat as it begins to wrap on the rock. "Please No!!" We jump onto the large SUV size rock in the middle of the stream and begin to panic as the sleet now turns to snow. Its obvious that in order to free up the boat we will have to empty it of all our camping gear.
As the rock on which we are centered is not big enough for both us and our gear Steve elects to swim ashore with the idea that I would unload the canoe and then toss the gear 10 feet or so across a rushing channel to him to deposit on the bank. So Steve jumps into the raging current -- but he's not swimming! Rather I see him being tossed about as he bounces downstream through a Class III boulder garden and is dumped into a quiet pool some 50-60 yards downstream. He swims to shore and crawls up onto the beach. Now he has to make his way back upstream to where I am -- and this is no easy task -- in essence its a steep Class V rock scramble across the face of a ice-covered bluff. Seems like nearly a half hour passes before he makes his way back upstream where he perches himself on a rock on the shore as close as he can get to me. I toss over the first big bag of gear -- "Dam! Be Dam!" it falls short and Steve makes a desparate grab for it and loses his balance falling off the rock and into the cascading water below. Again I watch him bump his way through the boulder garden, dog paddle out of the froth, crawl ashore and wait for him to climb the bluff back upstream to where I again wating and shivering. We make a pact that he is not to jump in again--"if it happens again Steve, just let it go!" We finish emptying the boat without further incident except for the last large bag--the "kitchen bag" -- the one with our "food, stove and lighter". It falls short -- I see Steve begin to jump and I scream to him "let it go, just let it go" -- we're happy to see it still floating as it reaches the recirculating pool down stream moving and bobbing about. Got to be fast--get down stream before it goes under--I rock and bend and twist the boat, pull it off the rock, drain it and climb in heading downstream as fast as I can go to retrieve the "kitchen" but by the time I get there it is too late--no bag can be found--our kitchen is at the bottom of a deep recirculating pool. Moreover all the rest of our gear is now upstream and has to be portaged down to the boat--a most horrendous task in the cold, in the snow, and in wet clothes. But the work keeps us busy and warm.
With our gear piled about the boat and snow lightly falling we were no longer smiling--not even close. Our sleeping bags and dry clothes were now soaking wet -- another lesson learned: plastic garbage bags aren't a very effective dry bag in these type of conditions. But the real icing on our nose was it was getting dark and cold and a fierce wind was building momentum and biting our exposed flesh. We were soaking wet and shivering and had no dry clothes or even a way to start a fire. And we were "up the creek without a paddle"--somewhere in all the confusion we had lost one of our paddles. In a panic we felt there was only one way out of our dilemma -- we had to push on to the take out as quickly as possible -- albeit we knew that the worst part of the river lay ahead -- something we had heard referred to as the "Falls of Little Red".
So with wet gear stowed in the bottom of the boat, Steve shivering and paddleless in the front and with me paddling in the back we headed onward in pitch black darkness--our continued descent measured only by the snow hitting our faces. We passed through several cascades without incident--cascades we couldn't see, only hear--when we could begin to hear the dreadful roar of the "falls". All we could do was try to stay midstream, lay low in the boat and cross our frozen fingers. I think I could also hear Steve praying as we reached the falls. Lesson 2: The symptoms of hypothermia usually develop so gradually that neither the person himself nor others realize what is happening.
In the darkness I have no idea what happened other than we hit rocks--lots of rocks--and the boat came to a stop, flipped violently and threw us both overboard. I swam -- we're talking like a "swim for your life" swim. I finally reached the bank on river right but tired and worn out I was unable to climb the bluff to higher ground. And somewhere in the darkness I could hear Steve scream for help. But cold, frozen and empty of all resources all I could do was just lie on the bank trying to keep the water from lapping up on me. Slowly it got very quiet and I fell into a dream state--not quite a sleep but certainly deprived of my full sensory innervation. I closed my eyes. Lesson 3: As body temperature falls further, shivering stops and movements become slow and clumsy, reaction time is longer, thinking is blurred, and judgment is impaired.
I don't remember how long I layed there when all at once an light shone in my face--up above me high on the bank an angel was shining down on me. I could hear feet scrambling down the hillside and all at once a bunch of hands and arms pulled me up the steep slope. Such strength, such stamina, I was awed! A voice said "Is anyone with you? We thought we heard someone else screaming for help." I shake myself to life and respond, "Yes, Steve. Steve is out there somewhere". "Wait here"... and the light and the arms and legs disappeared into the darkness. I lay back down on the snow covered ground.
Soon thereafter the arms and legs return and with them Steve -- this awakens my senses and I find that we had been recovered from the river by two other students that happened to be camping on the river for spring break. They took us back to their camp--I remember trying to keep up with there one rapidly dimming flashlight as it dashed about over the snow covered ground--slipping and sliding and falling but happy that we had been rescued. But it seems not all was well.
When we reached their camp--I found that they were in just about as bad shape as we were. Their little 2-man Wal-Mart special one-season pup tent was lying on the ground--wet with rain and now covered with slush and snow. They too had been having a miserable evening when they heard Steve's call for help and it was only with considerable reluctance and hesitation did they even considered to venture out to look for us. And now that they had found us they had little to offer--no dry clothes, no warmth and no food other than a pack of peanuts, soggy chips and a half of case of beer. Their heroism was taking a back seat to their personal comfort and they really wanted nothing more to do with us. They stumbled about in the darkness trying to some way to prop up their tent with a few sticks. They were eager to find shelter -- "Sorry man but we gotta get some sleep". Getting to the trailhead--some 4-6 miles distant--in the dark, in the snow was deemed impossible. And as they crawled into their tent all at once what ever lasting little piece of fire that existed inside me was quenched -- with their apologies they gave Steve and I a piece of Visqueen as they zipped up the tent and their flashlight went out dead.
In the darkness Steve and I crawled into a rhododendron thicket, wrapped the Visqueen around ourselves, and hugged one another tightly. Very very tightly. And the snow kept falling.
Soon I fell into a peaceful sleep--one of those sleeps that if there is no one to shake you up the next morning that you might just completely forget to wake up. Fortunately someone did shake me--I opened my eyes. Steve was gone but I finally saw one of our rescuers -- he look miserable. He was trying to get a fire going without success -- a week of rain and snow had saturated everything. He explained to me that he had been asked to stay behind while his buddy helped Steve back to the trailhead. Their goal was to drive back up to the put-in and retrieve our car. Meanwhile, we were to break camp and meet them at the trailhead.
Now all I wanted to do was sleep--but I knew I was only a few hours away from the warmth of the car. I had to hang in there. Moreover now that my clothes were frozen stiff--they really didn't feel near as cold. And the snow covered ground was beautiful--inspiring me--motivating me. I could do this--obviously Steve could--but by the time camp was broken down I was already exhausted. The march out was more than I could do as I stopped every 40-50 feet begging to just lay down and wait for help. Lesson #4: As the body temperature continues to drop the person may fall, wander off, or simply lie down to rest. If body temperature continues to fall, shivering stops, which is an ominous sign. At that point, the person becomes more sluggish.
My rescuer pushed me on with threats of "leaving my ass out there to freeze". ..."so be it!" I thought yet I trudged on...the trail along the river is always rough as it skirts up and down over rocks but it never seemed so long...I was beginning to doubt if I could make it -- in fact, it was getting fairly obviously that I was nothing but a liability -- constantly stopping, constantly falling down, constantly closing my eyes -- sleep walking. After probably covering only half the distance I was again saved when the second rescuer came walking up the trail coming in to offer additional assistance. With an arm around each of em and with one of them holding me by my pants they walked me out. Lesson #5: Movement and exercise in a patient with hypothermia moves the colder peripheral blood back to the body core and exacerbates the condition and can contribute to heart arrythemias and induce coma. Somewhere on the hike back I passed out.
I woke up lying in a hospital bed in Stanton Kentucky. A thermal blanket covered my trunk and a warm IV solution was trickling into my arm. My body was blue and magenta with deep black bruises covering my legs, arms and trunk. I hurt everywhere. My core temperature had dropped to 92 degrees and they were making every attempt to warm me back up. I shivered uncontrollably as a nurse fed me a warm broth. By that evening my temperature was back to normal and wife drove over from Louisville to bring me back home.
I slept all the way home or at least tried to as my wife scolded me -- all our camping gear that we had accumulated over the past 2-3 years by selling plasma and working odd jobs was gone--the boat that I borrowed from a close friend was gone--and that I had been foolish and reckless and stupid...and now I needed to find a way to pay off the hospital bill. I closed my eyes and the hum of the road did the rest.
The next day I could again feel pain -- both Steve and I looked like someone had taken a baseball bat and pounded every square inch of our bodies -- bruised, blackened and swollen from the pounding we took in the shoals. Moreover I couldn't swallow...so much pain! Lesson #6: when you get hypothermia all the blood is shunted to the internal organs and brain depriving the extremities and external tissues of nourishment -- the body's goal is to preserve the core. In this case, the mucosal lining of my mouth and throat had been frozen and "starved of blood" and was now dying and sloughing. I coughed up mucus and blood and tissue remnants for several days...between sips of cold water and bites of ice cream--yes now I was looking for something cold!
Later that first day home I went outside and laid on the porch--it was now in the 50s and with the sun beating down on my aching, bruised body I could feel each ray of light restoring my body back to health. For several days thereafter I grimaced in pain with each swallow, each step, each movement--but learned a most valuable lesson along the way. I have since spent many days camping at high altitude in sub-zero weather and have been cold and wet for hours on end but from here on out I'll never put myself in a position of not being able to affect a self-rescue (or having someone there I can depend on)-- for had it not been for those two kids--whose name I never got and who maybe be reading this right now and recalling those events from over a decade ago -- I probably would still be sleeping in the upper Red River Gorge of Kentucky.