Vermilion, Illinois, US |
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| Usual Difficulty | II-III (varies with level) |
|---|---|
| Avg. Gradient | 7 fpm |
| Max Gradient | 10 fpm |
| Name | Range | Difficulty | Updated | Level |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| VERMILION RIVER NEAR LEONORE, IL | ||||
| usgs-05555300 | 500 - 10000 cfs | I | 00h47m | 423 cfs (rc= -0.2 ) |
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!!! Warning !!! -
River Access Closed - See comments- 4/13/09
!!! Warning !!! - See comments about rockslide at wildcat
- 4/13/09
Quick Facts:
Location: NorthCentral IL, about 4 miles SE of Oglesby (near Starved Rock SP and Matthiessen
SP).
Shuttle Length: 5.6 miles. (See details in "Directions" Tab.)
Character: Very scenic rural stream. High bluffs in places. Wide open rapids (with exception of
Wildcat).
Drainage: 1278 sq.mi. (at former gauge site at put-in).
Put-in is approximately 510' elevation.
Take-out is approximately 450' elevation.
Thus total elevation change is approximately 60'.
General Overview
The Vermilion River in LaSalle County (there are two Vermilion's in Illinois) is
a class II-III whitewater river in North-Central Illinois. We have often seen this (erroneously)
characterized as the 'only' whitewater in Illinois. In fact, there are numerous others, but this
is certainly the most well known and likely the largest watershed and longest whitewater stretch.
As such, it has the most boatable days of any natural whiteater in the state, allowing a
commercial rafting business to be viable.
The early part of the reach runs through Matthiessen State Park. Downstream, quite a bit of the
property is owned by a private cement company (Buzzi-Unicem). Large bluffs and a 'canyon' (by
Illinois standards) surround quite a bit of this run, making it quite scenic.
The Vermilion is wide, and when running at better levels (over 1000 cfs) becomes quite pushy in
places. However, the fact that it is very 'pool/drop' (you have at least a half mile between
rapids) makes it (at most levels) an excellent place for beginning whitewater boaters and
commercial (and private) rafters.
Put-in access is at a commercial rafting outfitters (be respectful of their property and their
customers). Many private boaters will carry a quarter-mile or so upstream to put in upstream of
the highway bridge to play a fine series of waves and holes which exist up there. (In winter
months, this area may often be free enough of ice that it can offer some 'park-and-play'
opportunities.)
There are two places of potential concern
(particularly for novice boaters). The first is Wildcat. A landslide (Spring, 2009) has made the right shore
unstable at this location and has dumped trees and huge rocks in the river. Scouting should be considered mandatory, especially since additional
slumping of this shore is likely for the next few years each spring and after heavy rains.
Because of the unstable conditions on the right shore and private property issues on the left
shore, scouting/portaging should be done quickly. The left shore is safer, but boaters should
stay close to the water and minimize their presence there to avoid landowner confrontations.
The second area to be cautious is at the cement
factory where there is a low head dam with a
broken-out 'notch' on the right side. Scouting and possibly
portaging the low head dam is highly recommended for novice paddlers at low-to-moderate flows
(under 1500 cfs or so). (At higher flows, this short dam is increasingly swallowed up,
creating chaotic waves, or (higher yet) nothing more than a riffle! Due to a rafting death (and
subsequent lawsuit), the river was closed to trespass mid-summer, 2009 and all of 2010. As of
November 29, 2010, an agreement has been reached which will re-open this stretch of river once
the IDNR has the chance to make suitable modifications to the dam (to reduce its potential
danger) and to upgrade warning signs and marker buoys.
There is a hand painted boater's gauge at the Lowell put-in that most folks use to describe the
level. A conversion chart from USGS flow information is at http://www.wpr.pair.com/vermilion/
Additional info on the Vermilion may be found at http://www.rivers-end.org/vermilion/
Also, Google Maps has excellent resolution aerials of this reach. We highly recommend going to
the "Map" tab, clicking 'Satellite', double clicking near (not on, but near) the put-in
location icon, zooming to the maximum resolution (without losing image), and doing a 'virtual
tour' to 'walk' down the reach.
Notes:
Some years back there were major issues with parking at the takeout. A parking ban (which had
been discussed and in place for a short time) appears to have been rescinded. A suitable
alternative (more permanent solution) was sought, but (to our knowledge) no action was taken. In
light of past problems, please be sure to be courteous with everyone you encounter when at this
take-out. Be careful parking (don't impede traffic while maneuvering to park, or while accessing
your vehicle). Be respectful while changing (don't get too naked in public). Remember that even
just a random transgression, on a rare basis, may be enough to cause someone to complain and
re-open the problems for everyone else! It is an unfortunate truth that we are all likely to be
thought of as being as bad as the few worst offenders among us. Unfortunately, it takes dozens of
'compensating acts of good faith' to offset one transgression, and it is pretty tough to come up
with anything which will be seen (noticed) by any number of people as an act of good faith.
The USGS gauge referred to (at Leonore) is about 8 miles upstream of the put-in. It lists drainage area of 1251 square miles, which is only 2-3% less drainage area than at the put-in (and former gauge site) at Lowell. Thus, (other than for the lead/lag time associated with the intervening distance), the gauge at Leonore should generally be quite accurate for determining levels in the whitewater reach described here.
The suggested minimum (500 cfs) reflects the fact that the river is quite broad, so many areas will become quite a scrape below this level.
The suggested maximum (4,000 cfs) is set only to indicate levels above the 'norm'. Somewhere around this level some features will wash out (including Wildcat, normally the biggest drop on the river!), while others just get AWESOME! Thus, many boaters will thrill to see this river 'go purple'.
Most boaters historically have referred to a gauge painted on the bridge at (above) the put-in. There are approximations of the correlation of the Lowell bridge gauge to the USGS Lenore gauge at http://www.rivers-end.org/vermilion/ and http://www.wpr.pair.com/vermilion/
There was a USGS gauge at the Lowell bridge for forty years (1931-1971). While the nature of the overall watershed most certainly has likely changed somewhat in the interim (due to increased urbanization) and climate shifts may have some effect, the following analysis from that data period should still have some relevance.
| Gauge/flow analysis (based on USGS data, 1931-1971, at Lowell) | |
| Drainage area at gauge | 1,278 sq.mi. |
| Minimum daily mean flow during recording period (occurred 1961.02.01-05; 1963.12.21-24) | 5 cfs |
| 90% of time flow exceeds | 11 cfs |
| 10% of time flow exceeds | 3,050 cfs |
| Maximum daily mean flow during recording period (occurred 1958.07.15) | 25,600 cfs |
| 10/90 ratio ('flashy-ness') (under 3 is quite steady, over 10 is quite 'flashy') |
277 |
| Average annual runnable (>min) days per year based upon USGS historical data and the listed 'recommended minimum' level, Note: some of those days may be winter, when ice would preclude safe paddling. |
128 |
| Name | Range | Difficulty | Updated | Level | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| VERMILION RIVER NEAR LEONORE, IL | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| usgs-05555300 | 500 - 10000 cfs | I | 00h47m | 423 cfs (rc= -0.2 ) | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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Gauge(1251 sq.mi. drainage) is a ways upstream. Drainage at put-in is 1278 sq.mi., only ~2% more, so listed flow should be quite accurate for this reach. |
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| When | River/Gauge | Subject | Level | Reporter |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Vermillion River [IL] |
39475.jpeg |
1165cfs | Nathan Anderson | |
| Vermilion [IL] |
Throwing ends in Wildcat |
1200 cfs | Erik Johnson | |
| 2y219d17h25m | ermillion River from undercut rock to Oglesby take out [IL] | Vermilion River Closed by Buzzi/Unicem Cement Plant | n/a | n/a |
| 4y79d04h32m | Vermillion River [IL] |
39479.jpeg |
1165cfs | Nathan Anderson |
| 4y337d13h32m | Vermilion [IL] |
Vermilion Put-in |
2,500cfs | Dave Worth |
| 7y211d13h32m | Vermilion [IL] |
Swimming Wildcat |
around 5ft | craig carlson |
| 8y28d13h32m | Vermilion [IL] |
Surfing Wildcat |
4 feet | Erik Johnson |
| Mile | Rapid Name | Class | Features (Legend) |
|---|---|---|---|
| -0.3 | Put-in | II | |
| 0.7 | S-Turn | II | |
| 1.2 | Hole in the Rock | II | |
| 1.7 | The Cliff | I | |
| 4.0 | Wildcat | IV | |
| 4.3 | Bailey Creek | N/A | |
| 5.0 | Railroad | I | |
| 5.8 | The Dam | II | |
| 5.9 | The Narrows | II | |
| 6.0 | Side Creek | ||
| 7.7 | Take-out |
Carry down an excellent path from the road by the rafting outfitters. You can put-in right there, but many will opt to carry upstream as much as a quarter-mile to put in above the highway bridge. A sweet series of waves are scattered across the wide river. Some will offer repeat play, but more will be 'catch-on-the-fly', one-shot play.
A couple of large tables of rock channel water between them. A funky wave forms here.
The river encounters a tall cliff face and deflects to the left. At the end of the cliff, a fine eddy and deep water allow great bow stalls and stern squirts.
This is (was?) usually the highlight of the run, as it held one of the biggest/best playspots on the river. However, a very significant landslide (spring 2009) on river-right has altered the right side of this drop. Additional slumping of this bank will no doubt continue with heavy rains and subsequent spring thaws. A good video accounting of the situation (as of 2009.04.18, at 2000 cfs) is on YouTube:
Another unfortunate event (a rafting death at the Buzzi-Unicem Dam, and subsequent lawsuit) has had the river closed to trespass, so we have few reports of what the best route is at various flows, and whether there is any good play at any flow. The best recommendation is to approach this area with extreme caution, and be prepared to scout, to carefully assess the situation, especially since it is likely to change from time to time, whenever subsequent slumping of the right bank takes place, and also as high-water events (flooding) erodes and rearranges some of the earth/stone/trees which have been and may continue to be dumped into the river at this location.
When flows are right, a pleasant diversion is to carry up this side creek to run a steep grungy falls. Unfortunately, Buzzi-Unicem has been (reportedly) increasingly vigilant about patrolling and ticketing trespassers on its property. Thus, we cannot recommend hiking up to this drop. Do so at your own risk. See the full description of Bailey Creek
A wonderful wave forms here at a good variety of flows. Rocks on shore are often used as a lunch stop.
An old dam has a broken notch to river right. At low-to-moderate flows, this may merit scouting. Up around 3000 cfs, it is still easiest at river right, but it can be run virtually anywhere, with the warning that anywhere other than far right will have some real funky waves and boils to contend with. At higher flows, relatively little sign of the dam may be seen.
A bend and a narrowing in the river form some compression waves. As flows increase, thise build nicely into a great rollercoaster ride. And, one can paddle up the inside of the bend to regain all the way up to the first wave!
Another pleasant diversion (after all the action on the run) is to paddle up a side canyon to view a tall waterfall in a sandstone grotto.
It's a fair climb up and out of the river to the roadside where your shuttle vehicles may be parked.
User Comments
http://www.dnr.illinois.gov/PressRelease/DNR-VermilionRiverAgreementFINAL.pdf
different but wildcat is not easily a Class V+, maybe a class IV at best.
company at the damn. Wildcat is completely different than shown in the videos, even after the
landslide. It looks like the cement company piled boulders across most of the river to discourage
paddlers. It was impassable except for a huge drop on river right with an immediate left turn to
avoid a huge rock forming a wall at the bottom of the drop. This is easily class V+ now. The
dispute should be settled in Jule '10.
(http://www.newstrib.com/articles/news/local/default.asp?article=21311&aname=Buzzi%2C+rafting+company+sued+in+drowning):
"The company continues to enforce its private property rights on this stretch of the river, and has
been informed that law enforcement officers arrested as many as nine people for trespassing on the
company's property over this past weekend alone," said vice president David Rifkind. "While the
company continues to work diligently with the (Illinois Department of Natural Resources), public
access to the company's property will not be allowed until such time as the state makes an
announcement that IDNR has opened the river for public recreation."
dam on June 25th. We are seeking any help we can get in our campaign to have the river re-opened.
Anyone who knows anything about the laws regarding ownership of the actual river or how this is
determined, please let me know. We have seen that most accidents on the river here include the use
of alcohol, which is strongly discouraged. It is our opinion that neither the cement plant or the
outfitter that rented the party that was killed their equipment was responsible. Thousands of
people every year enjoy the scenic beauty and the thrill of the whitewater on this stretch of the
Vermilion without incident. Please contact me at Smokinmedic@hotmail.com if you would like to back
us in our fight to have the river re-opened. We need all the support we can get. Thank you in
advance and I hope to hear from lots of you!
water was about 20ft at Leonore (9ft at Lowell) and around 16000cfs. At these levels we expected
Wildcat and the dam to be totally washed. We were erroneous in our forecast. The put in was
irregular with about 3 to 4ft waves. The S-turn was beautiful… a solid 6ft+ wave (which we heard
wiped out a raft). Wildcat was a nice wave train about 6ft+ (much bigger on river left) although
there was not much of a hole present at this level. Finally, the NARROWS…… WOW…. I have never seen
it so big. There were 8ft+ irregular waves everywhere. River right was a little smaller but still
chaotic. Although risk was minimal due to the depth of water over the river bed I would still
recommend re-classing this section at this level based on the power and unpredictability of the
water. I RECOMMEND THAT NO ONE TAKE THIS RUN AT THESE LEVELS UNLESS YOU ARE VERY EXPERIENCED WITH
HONED SKILLS….. OR A VERY STRONG SWIMMER FOR LONG DISTANCES WITH NO AIR. Edit
majority of the eddy on river right of Wildcat has been filled in by the landslide and many large
boulders, including one that is about the size of a large tractor, are now river side. I almost
didn't recognize it. At the level yesterday (about 4,500 cfs) there was a surfable hole with a low
hanging tree above the hole. At this level the rapid is still very runnable even with the tree, but
the landslide looks very fresh a may still be settling. Its difficult to say how lower or higher
levels will be affected, if at all.